and the stage is set for a baseball milestone. The New York Yankees are in Chicago to play the Cubs. The last time these two storied franchises met was in 1932 during the World Series. That was the one where, as legend tells, Yankee slugger Babe Ruth "called his shot" and hit a home run, just as he had promised, for a hospitalized child.
Long-suffering Chicago fans are excited; this is really supposed to be the year for their beloved Cubbies, who did not win that 1932 World Series, or, in fact, any World Series since 1908. The buzz is palpable as the crowds gather around Wrigley Field. As raindrops start to fall, our group ducks into one of the many bars around the hoary old ballpark. Not too bad of a situation, really. We have big-screen coverage of the field, and as soon as the TV shows the ground crew rolling up the tarp, we can run into the park, jump into our seats, and not miss a play. In the meantime, we have cigars and we can smoke them. In fact, since we can't smoke inside the actual ballpark, the rain delay has provided a welcome chance for us to indulge.
So let New York have its Yankees and their 26 World Championships. We're in Chicago - where cigar smokers still have some rights.
Chicago's mayor, Richard Daley, has been in office for what seems like about 175 years, and most of us couldn't be happier. It's clear that he will not be pushed around by the anti-smoking forces intent on enforcing their will on the hundreds of thousands of small businesses, bars, restaurants, and mom-and-pop establishments in this living, breathing, smoking metropolis of the Midwest. Daley allows his citizens to be grown-ups, to make our own choices, to have fun. Many Chicagoans appreciate a leader who is more in the mold of the Big Apple's previous mayor - the gutsy, cigar-smoking Rudy Giuliani - than its current one, Michael Bloomberg.
Citizen activism by the legions of local tobacconists has translated into some measure of success. Our politicians are not blind to the issue of smoking in public places, but they're talking about ventilation and preserving freedoms instead of ridiculous draconian laws that are largely unenforceable. The anti-smokers want us to know they're still here, but so are we, and we spend more money, and more time, in our bars and restaurants than they do.
Chicago's local tobacconists have not only been actively defending their customer's rights; they've continued to be marvelous places to buy and smoke cigars, each with a distinct identity and atmosphere. Hence my list of some of Chicago's premier cigar merchandisers, and some of the finest cigar-friendly venues for cocktails, dinner, and nightlife. Beginning with the oldest first, here are of some of my favorites.
Iwan Ries & Company has been around since 1857. Chuck and Suzi Levi are the affable owners. Son Kevin and another half-dozen knowledgeable staff members are available to talk over consumer questions. They offer a wide variety of quality cigars, and an amazing expertise when it comes to briar pipes and tobacco selection. Iwan Ries has more then 15,000 pipes in stock. They have countless accessories as well and an eager-to-please attitude.
Iwan Ries & Company, 19 S. Wabash Ave., (312) 372-1306, iwanries.com.
Jack Schwartz Fine Cigars, still well-known for giving away "free matches," has been in business since 1921. When a customer orders an out-of-stock box of cigars, Jack Schwartz offers its successful "back order" arrangement - the Jack Schwartz automatic shipping system (or Jack-ASS) for short. Store owner Bill O'Hara is a knowledgeable cigar smoker and has spent time in the tobacco fields of the Dominican Republic and Honduras. Jack Schwartz Cigar Company caters to quality, which has led many celebrities to their doorway. When Hollywood chooses Chicago streets for their film, you can count on the actors taking a break with a cigar from Jack Schwartz's humidor.
Jack Schwartz Fine Cigars, Board of Trade Building (312) 782-7898, A href="http://www.JackSchwartz.com">JackSchwartz.com.
The Up Down Tobacco Shop covers the late night cigar market. Don't miss this store. It has been in Old Town for 42 years, and is notable for its loyal customers who camp out at the many parties thrown by owner Diana Gits Silvius. The annual three-day cigar party, held the first weekend in November, is rivaled by monthly summer patio cigar-tastings. The S.O.B.'s (Sons of Briar) is the pipe group headquartered at Up Down. The C.C.C. (Chicago Cigar Connoisseurs) is the cigar group, which at this moment boasts 769 active, voting, cigar smokers. Diana Silvius Cigars, manufactured by Arturo Fuente, are the best selling cigars in the store. An ongoing store remodeling has created patios, mezzanines, lighting, showcases and humidors unrivaled by anyone in the city. Diana has been seen on late night cable television so long, that she has an autograph-seeking public.
Enjoy smoking down the street at O'Brien's, 1528 N. Wells. You'll find a huge smoke-friendly piano bar serving lunch and dinner, Topo Gigio says its OK to smoke after 9:30 PM and The Fireplace Inn has a great sports bar attached to it. Orso's at Schiller and Wells has bar smoking and a giant outdoor patio serving food in the back.
The Up Down Tobacco Shop, 1550 N. Wells, (312) 337-8025, updowncigar.com.
Blue Havana, located on West Belmont, is a northern point in the city cigar experience. Owned by Mark Thomas and managed by Sue Frame, Blue Havana has a nice selection of good cigars, albeit not the deepest. This store and the shops around it cater to a young crowd. After buying your cigars, stroll around the corner to Pops for Champagne to enjoy your smoke in a refined atmosphere. For a more blue-collar Chicago experience go smoke them at Clybar, on Clybourn at Fullerton Avenue.
Blue Havana, 906 West Belmont, Tel: (773) B-Havana
China Town Smoke gives visiting cigar smokers an extra helping of after-dinner pleasure. Chicago's Chinatown always attracts visitors, and in my experience, they are happy to find this friendly shop, owned by Albert Lew, on their path. Rumor has it that there is karaoke in the basement of the Phoenix Restaurant (Archer & Wentworth) where you can also enjoy a cigar while listening to fellow wannabe crooners.
China Town Smoke 209 23rd Place (In Chinatown), (312) 808-1771.
La Casa Del Tobacco is owned by Mohammed Cheaib. Located in the trendy Bucktown/Wicker Park area in close proximity to a variety of bars and restaurants, many of which allow cigar smoking. Mohammed Cheaib is a young energetic storeowner. Cafe Absinthe (great food and atmosphere) on North Avenue and The Blue Line on Damen are around the corner for your tobacco enjoyment.
La Casa Del Tobacco, 1937 West North Avenue (773) 384-5225, lacasadeltobacco.com.
Hubbard and State Cigar Company is owned by Raki Mehra. This gentleman has been the manager of downtown Chicago's Morton's steakhouse since its inception - absolutely the best place in Chicago to smoke a fine cigar - and Raki encourages it. Hubbard and State Cigar Co. packs top- of-the-line cigars into an unpretentious space. Excellent jazz showcases and fine restaurants encouraging life's full enjoyments grace the area surrounding Hubbard and State Cigar Co. Stop in at Andy's for jazz, and visit Sullivan's up the street for its magnificent upstairs cigar lounge with deep leather sofas. Narcisse at 710 N. Clark is also a fine place to enjoy a good smoke.
Hubbard and State Cigar Company, Hubbard & State Streets, (312)670-0687.
Old Chicago Smoke is managed by Denise Romza. The owner is Ms. Patti Meade, who purchased the Hank Greenberg wholesale company. There is a large selection for cigar connoisseurs. During the mid 1980s, this store helped tremendously with the launching of new brands such as Ashton and Zino and actually helped create the idea that a "boutique" brand cigar could make it into the larger, trademarked cigar world. If you want to relax and enjoy a cigar around this shop try the Marquette Inn Restaurant at 60 West Adams.
Old Chicago Smoke Shop, 10 S. South LaSalle Street (312) 236-9771 chicagocigars.com.
While the Chicago metro area boasts a wealth of cigar destinations, suburbanites have plenty of options, too. Outside the city limits are some other quality cigar stores, like Arlington Cigar (847-255-2263) in Arlington Heights; Churchill's n Down (847-205-1808) in Deerfield; Cigar King (847-675-2447) in Skokie; Jorgio's (630-690-7490) in Wheaton; Strictly Men (708-868-1088) in Calumet City; and Stogies Cigars in Hinsdale, Hanover Park, and Naperville.
As we all remember, the Cubbies once again fell short in their attempt to bring a World Series title to Chicago. Fortunately, the efforts of the anti-smoking brigade to impose their wills on the Windy City seem to have fallen short as well. And while we're all savoring our freedom, we've also got to be ready to fight for them - over and over again if necessary - for the spirit of Chicago demands nothing less.